Dog Friendly Summer Sunday Trip to Tomales Bay

Byangelalingy

A friend of ours flew into the Bay Area this past Sunday morning and apparently it’s been over six years since he’s explored anywhere north of San Francisco. So naturally, we picked him up from SFO and showed him around North Bay for the day, specifically Tomales Bay. Why? Because I’m jealous that Ryan got to enjoy fresh gulf oysters during his recent work trip in New Orleans… without me. I want some fresh oysters too! Plus, Tomales Bay is the most sought after oyster destination in the Bay Area. Coincidentally, our oyster-loving friend was also visiting. So it was a no-brainer for us to trek up the coast together to Tomales Bay and slurp down oysters fresh from the ocean.

Tomales Bay is a narrow, 15-mile long inlet of the Pacific Ocean that separates the Point Reyes Peninsula from the mainland of Marin County. Located 1.25 hours north from San Francisco, it’s an easy escape from the city along the scenic Hwy 1. Tomales Bay is recognized as a wetland of international importance and protected by the California Bays and Estuaries Policy, which prevents municipal wastewater and/or industrial process water from being discharged into the bay. The western side of the bay is comprised of Tomales Bay State Park and Point Reyes National Seashore – both unfortunately do not allow dogs on trails – while the eastern side is dedicated to the bay’s major industry of oyster farming. Hog Island Oyster Company and Tomales Bay Oyster Company are the largest oyster producers in the area. You’ll also find local wines and award-winning cheeses on the eastern side too. Nearby towns to explore in the area include Point Reyes Station, Nicasio, Petaluma and San Rafael.

At a Glance:

Tips for a shucking good time visiting oyster farms in Tomales Bay:

  • Bring a cooler to store the oysters. Most oyster farms will provide the ice.
  • Bring an oyster shucking knife, or pay a premium to buy one there.
  • Bring thick gloves to protect your fingers while shucking. We bring multiple pairs since the first pair always gets soaked with oyster juice during our first few shucking attempts.
  • Bring hand towels to clean up any inevitable messes.
  • Prepare sauces for the oysters. We like a classic mignonette or a simple squeeze of fresh lemon. For those who like an extra kick of spice, bring your favorite hot sauce too!
  • Watch some videos beforehand on how to shuck oysters. We think the most helpful tutorial is this 60-second oyster-shucking tip from America’s Test Kitchen.
  • Don’t forget to pack other accompaniments to eat along with the oysters. We typically bring homemade pasta salad, a charcuterie board, fresh fruit, and some type of chilled drink like white wine, rose or a classic Aperol Spritz.
  • Bring cash. Some oyster farms like Tomales Bay Oyster Company are cash only.
  • Bring picnicking gear like a large picnic blanket, portable dining table, and/or camp chairs – just in case. Most oyster farms have picnic tables that are first-come, first serve. But others like Tomales Bay Oyster Company do not allow on-site picnicking and so you’ll need to find an alternate, dog-friendly place to picnic.
  • Use your preferred GPS navigation app to download a map of the Tomales Bay area to use offline. The cell phone reception there is spotty at best.
  • Dress for the coast – bring layers. The weather in Tomales Bay can be warm and sunny or cool and foggy.

Morning at the Sunday Marin Farmers Market – San Rafael

We were so eager to pick up our friend from SFO on Sunday morning, because it had been years since we last drove up to Tomales Bay to indulge in some fresh, succulent oysters. But, of course, his flight got delayed. At SFO, our friend informed us that he hadn’t had breakfast or his morning coffee yet, so we quickly made our way up to the Sunday Marin Farmers Market. With the inevitable Golden Gate Bridge traffic, it took us about 45 mins. 

As all of us pawrents know, this farmers market – like all the other ones in California – is NOT dog-friendly. But we found plenty of covered parking spots nearby at the Marin County Civic Center for Kona to comfortably relax in the car with the windows down. Luckily, as a heat wave unloads across the rest of the Bay Area this summer, the temperatures in Marin County have remained mild, rarely exceeding 75°F. Remember to leave a bowl of water in the car for your dog.

The Sunday Marin Farmers Market is open year-round, rain or shine from 8am-1pm. Since opening in 1987, it has grown to become the third largest farmers market in California. You’ll see why when you get there – it’s enormous! There are nearly 200 vendors here selling a huge variety of seasonal produce, local goods, nuts, cheese, plants, flowers, handcrafted items, food, drinks, dog treats, and more! When we visited, there were oodles of peaches, pluots, nectarines, apricots, plums, cherries and other glorious stone fruits. Summer fruits are my favorite! Plus, there were lots of free samples to try throughout the market. The prices were a little steep, with most stone fruit selling for $5+ per pound. But that’s expected for locally grown, non-industrial, organic, ultra fresh, flavorful food. However, if you visit 15-30 mins before closing, most vendors will mark down their prices – I got a bag of various stone fruits for $2/lb last Sunday!

Some of the vendors here that are local favorites include:

  • Avi-ously Delicious Catering – Falafel sandwiches full of flavorful hummus, dill pickles and tahina.
  • Roli Roti Gourmet Rotisserie – Slow-roasted non-GMO chicken, porchetta, and roasted fingerling potatoes covered in chicken and pork drippings. 
  • Waffle Mania – Food truck serving thick, Belgian sugar waffles with an almost caramelized layer of sugar on the outside that makes it delectably crunchy.
  • Rodriguez Farms – The juiciest, certified organic strawberries.
  • Kashiwase Farms – Certified organic stone fruit. This was my favorite fruit stand with a wide variety of peaches, nectarines, plums, etc. The samples here were the sweetest and tastiest!
  • Myriad Coffee – Great coffee with great service. The barista even took the time to give us an in-depth introduction to the flavor profiles of all their roasts. The New Orleans style iced coffee and “Shaken Oatchata” were delicious!

If you missed the Farmers Market, consider spending your morning in Corte Madera before heading up to Tomales Bay. Corte Madera is 15 mins north from the bridge and has two outdoor shopping plazas that are dog-friendly: The Village at Corte Madera & Town Center Corte Madera. The Village has all the trendiest athleisure stores like Lululemon, Vuori and Fabletics, while the Town Center has plenty of dog-friendly eats like Philz Coffee, Starbird Chicken, Blue Barn and Fieldwork Brewing, as well as outdoor specialty stores like Eddie Bauer and REI.

And if you forgot to pack cheese for your charcuterie board – or simply want to indulge in some more local flavors – there are two creameries on the way to Tomales Bay: Nicasio Valley Cheese Company and Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company. Both produce cheese that have won multiple global, national and state awards at various competitions like the World Cheese Championships, American Cheese Society and California State Fair. The cheeses are made exclusively with the freshest, highest quality milk from their own cows here on these farms. Note that both locations are working farms with animals on-site, so it’s best to keep your dog safely in the car as you quickly pick up some local cheese.

Shucking Oysters for Lunch – Tomales Bay Oyster Company & Millerton Point

The 45 min drive from the Farmers’ Market to Tomales Bay Oyster Company (TBOC) is beautiful, so please remind yourself to look out the window and enjoy the present moment – even if you’re giddily anticipating future oysters. TBOC is not only the first of many oyster stops along Hwy 1, but also the oldest continuously-run shellfish farm in California (est. 1909). However, oyster cultivation in the Bay Area dates back to the 1880s during the Gold Rush era. At the time, the San Francisco Bay was the 6th largest oyster producer in the nation, but skyrocketing population growth and seafood demand led to the rapid depletion of wild oyster beds. This prompted the need for an alternative solution: oyster farming in the pristine estuarine waters of Tomales Bay. In fact, the first Tomales Bay oyster beds were sown near Millerton Point, which is only a 2-min drive from TBOC (and where we’ll be slurping our oysters).

TBOC sells Pacific oysters that are grown and harvested straight from Tomales Bay, as well as Kumamotos, manila clams and mussels. Pacific oysters, originally from Japan, were introduced to Tomales Bay in 1928 when the California Department of Fish and Game conducted experimental plantings in an effort to re-establish natural populations of oysters. After years of trial and error, the Pacific oyster plantings proved successful and were not only commercially grown in California, but became the West Coast’s dominant oyster species. We love how the Pacific oysters here taste less briny and have a sweetness to them. Plus their creamy, custardy texture is heavenly.

Tomales Bay Oyster Company is open Fri-Sun from 9am-5pm, and Mon-Thurs from 9am-4pm. The oysters are sold by the dozen or 50-count at reasonable prices. We stick to the extra small and small Pacific oysters, which range from $17-20 per dozen or $65-80 per 50-count. That comes out to less than $1.67 per oyster, fresh from the bay! While it might not sound like it, the extra smalls are plenty big – it’s the most widely used half-shell oyster size at restaurants and raw bars. Once you’ve had the oysters here, you won’t want to get them anywhere else – say goodbye to those restaurant happy hour oysters!

We appreciate how the folks at TBOC double-check your oysters for quality and will immediately replace hollow ones for you – I’d hate to come across a dud after all that shucking effort. Kona loves coming up to the stand with us to purchase our oysters – she’s a sucker for anything that smells briney. Make sure to bring your own cooler to keep your oysters cold and safe, or expect to pay $10 for their biodegradable coolers. Note that TBOC is a working farm with retail to-go sales only, which means you’ll have to shuck and eat the oysters at alternate picnic places around Tomales Bay. TBOC is cash only, but there is an ATM available.

This time we arrived around 1pm and there was only one other party in front of us (with a cute German Shepherd puppy). We got two dozen of the extra small Pacific oysters and one dozen of the smalls for a total of $54, and were in-and-out in less than 15 mins. While you may be tempted to buy the very reasonably priced 50-count bag – like we had our first time here – we recommend only buying as many as you can eat on the first day since the taste does change pretty quickly as more days pass.

You’ll then want to speed over to Millerton Point so that you can start breaking into these delicious bivalves. Note that dogs are NOT allowed on the beach there (Alan Sieroty Beach), but are welcome on the surrounding hiking trails. There used to be a picnic table hidden on the left before the entrance to the beach, but strangely it wasn’t there this time. Ryan fortunately had the foresight to bring our own portable table and chairs. None of us had cell phone service either and thus were unable to pull up a video on how to shuck oysters when we desperately needed it. Luckily, Ryan and I had shucked oysters before, and after a few mangled attempts, it was like riding a bike.

Check out our awesome picnic spread of homemade pasta salad, cherries, charcuterie board, chilled New Zealand white wine, Aperol Spritz and oysters!

Post-Lunch Hike – Millerton Point Trail

After stuffing ourselves with three dozen of the freshest oysters, we needed to walk it off. The Millerton Point Trail was just the right amount of incline (minimal) and length (short and sweet) for our full stomachs. This trail is part of Tomales Bay State Park. And although dogs are not allowed on any of the beaches or trails at Tomales Bay State Park, the sign and dog waste station in front of the Millerton Point trailhead clearly indicates otherwise. Dogs are welcome on the designated path, but not on the beach itself or paths that lead to the beach.

We walked counterclockwise along this well-maintained gravel trail and didn’t come across any other groups. It was comical how windy it was here – my hat almost flew away TWICE – yet the waters looked so tranquil. The views of the bay here are so beautiful that our photos don’t do it justice. You have to come see it for yourself if you’re ever in the area!

Afternoon Stroll Around Point Reyes Station

Just 10 mins south is Point Reyes Station, a small town that is the gateway to the Point Reyes National Seashore. The town’s name comes from its status as a terminus stop on the North Pacific Coast Railroad for nearly 60 years until 1933. Point Reyes Station consists of 1-2 main streets with a few eateries, local grocery stores, specialty gift shops, and small inns. Come admire the town’s vaguely Italianate architecture, which was influenced by the Northern Italian immigrants and Italian-speaking Swiss who first lived here. 

This time we only stopped by Bovine Bakery for some grab-and-go pastries to enjoy on our scenic drive through Point Reyes National Seashore. Their baked goods are made from high quality, organic ingredients and sell out quickly on the weekends (as early as 2pm). We recommend the bear claw, flaky croissants and seasonal scones. If you need coffee, head over to Toby’s Coffee Bar instead, which proudly serves San Francisco-roasted Linea coffee with organic milk from Straus Family Creamery. Note, Toby’s is cash only. Both spots are open daily and close at 5pm. If you prefer to enjoy your goodies before heading back onto the road, there are dog-friendly places to sit at Toby’s but not at Bovine Bakery.

Scenic Drive Through Point Reyes National Seashore

Point Reyes National Seashore was established in 1972. This 71,000-acre national park is full of forests, coastal scrub and grasslands, dunes, beaches, wilderness, a historic lighthouse, and stunning landscapes. Outside of paved parking lots and public roads, dogs are allowed only on South Limantour Beach, Point Reyes Beach, and Kehoe Beach (including Kehoe Beach Trail). Fortunately, there are still a couple of scenic, must-see locations within the park that are either paved (and thus dog-friendly), or quick photo stops where you can leave your dog in the car. For other dog-friendly things to do around the Point Reyes area, check out our Ultimate Guide to Dog Friendly National Parks in California.

S.S. Point Reyes Shipwreck

The S.S. Point Reyes Shipwreck is an old fishing boat perched on the Tomales Bay sandbar in the small town of Inverness, just behind the local grocery store off Sir Francis Drake Blvd. While the treacherous waters and jagged coasts of Point Reyes have claimed many ships and countless lives since the late-1800s, this particular fishing boat isn’t a shipwreck at all. The S.S. Point Reyes first served as a WWII motor launch boat and was then later used for salmon fishing. An Inverness resident purchased the boat with the intention to repair it, but it got caught in a storm and washed onto the sandbar, where it has remained abandoned ever since local uproar prevented it from being permanently removed.

S.S Point Reyes Shipwreck Source: National Park Service

Parking is easy and the boat can be viewed from the east end of the Inverness Store parking lot. There’s even a small picnic area just footsteps away. Do not climb on the boat. This is a popular spot for photographers trying to capture the beauty of the rusting colors against the backdrop of low-tide wetlands.

Cypress Tree Tunnel

The Monterey cypress trees that make up this exquisite tree tunnel were planted in the 1930s along the road leading to the historic KPH Maritime Radio Receiving Station, which provided ship-to-shore morse code and telegraph messages for most of the 20th century. These trees are one of the few species able to adapt to the wind and ocean weather conditions of Point Reyes. Park on the shoulder of Sir Francis Drake Blvd – pull off the road completely to not block traffic. Dogs are welcome to walk through the tree tunnel with you.

Cypress Tree Tunnel Source: National Park Service
Point Reyes Beach

Point Reyes Beach – also known as Great Beach and Ten Mile Beach – is one of three beaches within the Point Reyes National Seashore where dogs are actually permitted. This undeveloped ocean beach stretches 11+ miles from Tomales Point and Kehoe Beach up north to the Point Reyes Headlands down south. It is split into two sections: North Beach and South Beach. Both are secluded with large crashing waves that you do not want to turn your back to. It’s best to avoid playing near the water’s edge here. Plus the ocean water may be as low as 50°F. While Point Reyes Beach may not be your typical “fun in the sun” beach, what makes it special is all the wildlife that can be observed here: gray whales (winter/spring), elephant seals (winter/spring), sea lions, birds and more!

North Beach Source: National Park Service

Which beach you decide to visit may depend on the seasonal beach closures implemented to protect wildlife. From 12/15 – 3/31, the southernmost end of South Beach is closed to protect nursing elephant seal pups. On weekends and federal holidays from Memorial Day (late-May) through Labor Day (early-Sept), the area north of the North Beach parking lot is closed to protect western snowy plover nests and chicks – here, dogs are further prohibited from 3/1 – 9/30. Both beaches have free parking and clean restrooms.

South Beach Source: National Park Service
Point Reyes Lighthouse (Parking Lot)

The Point Reyes Lighthouse was built in 1870 and served for 105 years helping ships traveling between San Francisco Bay and northern locations navigate around the hazardous Point Reyes peninsula, which juts out 10 miles into the ocean. The U.S. Coast Guard transferred ownership of the lighthouse to the National Park Service when it was retired from service in 1975. 

Point Reyes Lighthouse Source: National Park Service

Dogs are allowed only in the parking lot and along Sir Francis Drake Blvd east of the parking lot. Dogs are prohibited from all pathways west of the parking lot (paved or not), including the road to the Visitor Center, stairs to the Lighthouse, and South Beach Overlook Trail. The Lighthouse Visitors’ parking lot is free and has 38 total spaces that quickly fill up on weekend afternoons. From the parking lot, it’s a 0.45-mile uphill walk to the Lighthouse Visitor Center, followed by a 313-step stairway (~20 stories) down to the lighthouse. The Visitor Center and staircase are open year-round from 10am-4pm on Fri-Sun, with Mondays and Thursdays also open from June-Nov. When wind speeds exceed 40 mph, the stairs leading down to the lighthouse are closed for visitors’ safety.

To be honest, the Point Reyes Lighthouse might not be the most realistic stop if you have a dog – even if you were to take turns watching the dog in the parking lot. It’s a 1.3-mile roundtrip walk (~45 min) to the lighthouse, which may be too long to leave your dog unattended in the car. A dog-friendly alternative from the Lighthouse Visitors’ parking lot is a 0.4-mile out-and-back walk east along Sir Francis Drake Blvd to the Sea Lion Overlook trailhead. While dogs are not allowed down the 54-step stairway to the overlook itself, you could easily take turns watching your dog at the top. Sea lions may be seen (and heard) year-round here.

Chimney Rock (Parking Lot)

Located at the easternmost end of the Point Reyes Headlands, the Chimney Rock area provides spectacular views of Drakes Bay and the Pacific Ocean from the parking lot. The small, paved parking lot has 20 total spaces, as well as a vault toilet. While the 1.8-mile Chimney Rock Trail and Elephant Seal Overlook are accessible from this parking lot, dogs unfortunately are not permitted at either.

Chimney Rock Parking Lot Source: National Park Service

However, the Elephant Seal Overlook is a short, easy 0.5-mile roundtrip walk down from the parking lot, so it’s another great option where you could take turns watching your dog at the top (or briefly leave in the car). From December through March, hundreds of northern elephant seals can be seen from this overlook as they return to Drakes Beach to give birth and mate.

Trail to Elephant Seal Overlook Source: National Park Service
Drakes Beach (Parking Lot)

For an even closer look at elephant seals, you can drive 15 mins to the southern edge of the Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center parking lot near Drakes Beach. Leave your dog in the car to respect the resting elephant seals. Additionally, always maintain <25 feet distance from the elephant seals. Dogs are not allowed on Drakes Beach or inside the Visitor Center.

Elephant seals laying on the ice plant on Drakes Beach Source: National Park Service

Walk Around the Town of Fairfax

Rather than driving back to San Francisco the same way we came in (through Nicasio via Point Reyes Petaluma Rd), we highly recommend continuing along Sir Francis Drake Blvd through Samuel P. Taylor State Park instead. This way you’ll get to experience another diverse natural landscape found in Marin County: one surrounded by lush redwoods as you drive along Lagunitas Creek. Plus, this route only adds an additional 5 mins to your drive – totally worth it if you ask us.

To break up the 1.75 hour drive to our final destination, we stopped by the quaint town of Fairfax, which is just over 1 hour away from the Point Reyes Lighthouse. Fairfax sits at the foot of Mount Tamalpais – widely recognized as the birthplace of mountain biking – and is on the official Pacific Coast Bike Route that spans 1,700+ miles along the western coast. 

It is home to the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame, which resides within the Marin Museum of Bicycling and its exhibits on the evolution of the bicycle since the 19th century. It is also home to Good Earth Natural Foods, an organic foods store that has been at the forefront of the organic movement since 1969. The founders helped establish organic standards in the 1970-80s before there was any certified organic regulation. While both of these places unfortunately are not dog-friendly, there are other spots in Fairfax that do allow dogs:

  • Split Rock Tap & Wheel – A bike shop that uniquely also serves pizza, sandwiches, salads and an ever-changing list of California microbrew beers. Dog-friendly outdoor space. Store closes 6pm and cafe closes 9-10pm.
  • Fairfax Scoop – Organic ice cream made from local ingredients and Straus Family cream. It’s a tiny shop with big flavors like vanilla honey lavender. Benches outside. Cash only. Closes 10pm.
  • Gestalt Haus – Over 30 taps of West Coast and German craft beers, plus some 20 styles of sausages. Dog-friendly patio.
  • Más Masa – Fast-casual taco spot with dog-friendly outdoor seating. Fresh corn tortillas made on-site. Closed Mon & Tues.
  • The Potting Shed – Small but mighty gift and plant boutique.
  • HenHouse Brewing Company West County Pub – Brewery serving a variety of IPAs, pale ales, stouts, saisons and sours. Closes 10pm. Closed Mon & Tues.

Epic Views of the Golden Gate Bridge – Hawk Hill & Golden Gate View Point

Time to finish the day with epic views of one of the most iconic and photographed bridges in the world. If you’ve only ever seen the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco, then you absolutely need to experience it from the Marin Headlands. We think that the best view of the bridge is from the top of Hawk Hill as it is a lot less crowded than other (lower) viewpoints. It’s an easy walk up from the parking lot, which has ample free parking spots and a restroom. Plus, as the name suggests, you can witness the fall migration of raptors like turkey vultures and red-tailed hawks from Hawk Hill – the best time is during midday hours (10am-2pm) in September and October.

golden gate bridge from marin headlands
View of Point Bonita from afar

However, if Karl the Fog is in full force that day, you’ll end up with a partially obscured view of the bridge and the cityscape of San Francisco City from Hawk Hill. But not to worry, just 5 mins down Conzelman Rd is another viewpoint where we’ve consistently been able to enjoy breathtaking views of the Golden Gate Bridge, even amidst the fog. It gets incredibly windy and chilly at both of these viewpoints, so make sure to bring a jacket!

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